New arcade stick MadCatzT.E.3 modified to be leverless

MadCatzT.E.3 was released in December.
Last time, we reviewed all of its features and contents, but this time we have made the TE3 leverless.
MadCatz products are leverless, with professional athletes increasingly switching over to them!
I can do it!!

↓Click here for the article about MadCatzT.E.3 before modification

Review of the latest 2022 arcade controller, MadCatz TE3!

※※Must read※※Caution※※

This article is not a recommendation to modify.
Modifications will result in you losing support.
Please do so at your own risk when making modifications.

What you need to prepare to make MadCatzT.E.3 leverless

This time we will be modifying an existing unit, so there is no need to make a custom case.
However, some machining is required, so you will need some tools.
The following items are required
・Hit box board
Universal Fighting Board (commonly known as UFB board)
UFB-UP5 (PS5 connection upgrade kit)
UFB cable (can be made by yourself)
Leverless cable for UFB (can be made by yourself)

・Other tools
Make sure you have the necessary tools, such as a screwdriver and hexagon, ready.
I used some fairly unusual tools in this modification, so I will introduce them along with the work process later.

Most of the arcade controller parts I used this time were purchased at Sengoku Denko in Akihabara.

This store sells a variety of arcade controller parts, so be sure to stop by if you're in the area.

Parts to consider when modifying MadCatzT.E.3

There is a circuit board at the USB connector, and the circuit board cover is the problem.
Since we will be using the horizontal cable method, we want to make sure to remove this part.

A cable connecting the upper panel board and the USB terminal board.
It's a bit thick, and I'll be removing the USB board, so I'm not sure what to do.

If you take care of these two areas in particular, there will be no interference.

Also, this time we considered the issue of repair after processing, and decided not to use the options on the top panel as dummies.

MadCatzT.E.3, leverless modification procedure

From here on, we will describe the steps to make TE3 leverless.

This is my own method, so I hope you will use it as a reference.

Disassembly of the MadCatzT.E.3 body

First, disassemble the main body.
Disassembly also includes removal of levers and buttons.

The hinge part is screwed in two stages, so be careful if you want to completely disassemble it.

The wiring for the buttons and levers is housed in the top panel.
We will not be using this this time, so we plan to cut the wiring.
*You will need to use a soldering iron to reconnect, so plan accordingly...
I decided to cut it because I could repair it.

The cover of the USB board will be cut off later.
Remove the screws first to make it easier to work on.

Remove the acrylic plate and iron plate.
We won't be using either of them this time, so make sure to keep them safe.
*You will need a hexagonal wrench here, so have one ready.

We have also arranged for new plates to be inserted, so these acrylic plates and aluminum plates will be installed in the end.

The plates we prepared this time are from an online shop that specializes in processing and creating arcade controller tops.IKD FactoryI asked him to make it.
We create top plates not only for the TE3 but also for a variety of other arcade controllers, so if you need to modify a top plate when modifying your arcade controller, be sure to check us out.

We had several exchanges regarding the TE3 tabletop, and it was made to order.
thank you very much.

In addition to tabletops, we also have desks for arcade controllers, so if you're interested, please come and check it out!

Cutting unnecessary parts

First, we will process the main body to fit the plate.
This is the most difficult part of the job, so patience is essential.
The plastic part of the main body is cut using an ultrasonic cutter, but most households do not have ultrasonic cutters, so I bought one from the "Kurumu FactoryI visited ".

This store is the one we previously used for our article on creating Bipla.

Build a plastic model in Akihabara! Myojinshita Kurumu FACTORY [Rental Workshop]

The ultrasonic cutter used is a high frequency one.

Ultra-vibration cuts plastic as if it were melting, so you can process the main body without using any force.
However, due to the length of the cutting edge, it is best to avoid using it on thick boards.

First, we will process the top plate.
We will cut the plastic so that it does not interfere with the buttons, but considering durability, it is best to minimize the amount of cutting.


Since the plastic board of the main body is thick, be sure to cut twice from the back.
The cutting is done slowly without applying force, relying on the machine's performance.

Occasionally check the cutting position while fitting the replacement plate.

The cut is complete.

After the cutting is complete, I put the plate on top and it looks great.

Cut the USB board part as it is and remove it.


I plan to run the cables sideways even after the modification, so I will process them accordingly.

Use a router to smooth the cut area.
Be sure to securely secure the internal cables to prevent them from getting tangled or disconnected.

Creating a pseudo faceplate

Before inserting the buttons, create a pseudo faceplate using plastic sheet.
If you just insert a transparent acrylic plate, the inside will be visible, which will look very unsightly.
It's like this.

If you use a board that is too thick, it may interfere with the button claws, so I used TAMIYA's0.3mm plastic sheetUse the.

First, cut the acrylic sheet to fit the size.
*The size is not enough, so add more to make up for the shortfall.

Then cut out the plastic sheet to fit the buttonhole position.

Even if you place it on top in this state, the bottom will show through, so we will paint the plastic plate.

The following paints are used:
Be sure to spray on a good coat of primer to ensure the paint adheres well.

Primer → Black base → Metallic red → Glass pearl
Spray in this order to create a gradation effect.

Button insertion

Once the pseudo faceplate is complete, insert the buttons.
This time we will be using QANBA's Gravity button.
While GamerFinger buttons are popular and widely used, the Gravity buttons are also extremely quiet and have excellent response times.
We have prepared 11 24mm buttons, 1 30mm button, and 4 Sanwa Denshi 24mm buttons for other buttons.


There's nothing particularly difficult about this step, but the key is to make sure the button terminals are aligned in the same order when you insert them.
This will make GND wiring much easier.

Preparation of UFB substrate

Next, prepare the USB board.
This time, I purchased a commercially available connection cable to save time.
Of course, it is possible to make your own cable, so if you have the tools and time, you might want to give it a try.

First, prepare the main UFB board.
Attach the fighting board cable to the UFB unit after removing it from the box.

The fighting board cable contains two wires for the main controls.

The terminals have left, right, top and bottom, so be careful not to get them mixed up.
There is a section on the far left that has no wiring, so it might be easier to use that as a landmark...
This wiring is for the main buttons and lever.

The four-wire type is for L3 and R3.
Use the middle of the three white terminals.

Next, connect the leverless conversion cable.

Simply insert the lever terminal extending from the black pin and the conversion cable to complete the process.

Wiring the buttons

As for wiring the buttons, I think you'll have no problem if you follow Brook's official wiring diagram.

First, this black connecting cable is the GND wiring.
I won't go into detail here, but this is the wire needed to sense the on/off state of the switch, and it is connected to one side of the button terminal.
Since the length of this connecting wire is a little short, it is best to keep the terminals facing the same direction.

Perform each wiring.
Since it is leverless, the directional keys are also buttons.
Of course, you will need a GND wiring.

Next, connect the UFB-UP5 to use with the PS5.

First, connect the included 5-pin and 2-pin cables to the UFB-UP5 main unit.
*You will have one extra pin left over, but please keep it as you will not be using it.

Connect the 5-pin side to the position shown in the photo on the UFB main unit.

Connect the red and black wires extending from pin 2 as shown in the image.
The red wire is for 5V power supply and the black wire is for GND.

That's all it takes to complete the connection.

Once all the wiring is complete, screw it into the bottom of the inside of the arcade controller.

The holes were drilled with a 2.5mm drill and threaded with a 3mm drill.
Polycarbonate screws are used to prevent short circuits in the event of an emergency.

I want the cable to be detachable, so I will extend an extension cable from the main unit.

Since this part is inserted and removed through the widened hole, it is strongly glued with epoxy adhesive.
We also filled in the gaps with putty and painted them black to make the adhesive less noticeable.

It won't budge even a little!

UFB firmware update

Finally, update the firmware on the UFB unit to complete the process.
Brook OfficialDownload the firmware from and start it.

When you connect to your PC while pressing the PS button and SHARE button, the update start button will appear.

When the check mark appears, the firmware update is complete.

Verifying Connection

Once the firmware is updated, we will check whether it can be used properly in games.
First, insert it into the game console and press the PS button.
It's responding well.

Next, actually play the game and check it out.
I was able to issue a cancellation certificate without any problems.

I used to use a keyboard to play QOH99, so it's nice to be able to control it a little.
Now that the connection has been confirmed, the TE3 is now leverless!

The final button layout is as follows:

Finished converting MadCatzT.E.3 to leverless

This modification was made in the direction of making it leverless while retaining the original design.
The only thing I regret is that I couldn't use the original Option button and touchpad.
There was also the option of completely hollowing out the inside and modifying it, but I thought it would look rather awkward if opened up, so I put that idea on hold for now.
We've addressed this by adding more buttons, but eventually we'd like to make it leverless and incorporate various functions while making use of the original materials.
That's it! If I have the opportunity, I would like to create an improved version.